¿Ya será año nuevo?

Es 31 de diciembre. Estoy sentada en una de las tantas camas cuchetas que hay en una amplia habitación que hoy ocupan españoles, italianos, israelitas, mexicanos, argentinos y no sé cuánta gente de otros lados del mundo que vino hasta el sur de México especialmente para ésta fecha.


Llegamos cuando todas las camas -por no decir tablas de madera encimadas- tenían una mochila o ropa o una señal de que ya habían sido ocupadas, así que nos tocó plantar bandera en un rincón del piso de cemento. Esta noche dormiremos -o no- en nuestras bolsas de dormir sobre el suelo.




Martín ya se acostó.
Hace frío y llueve. Estamos empapados.
Afuera la gente está de fiesta. Hay música desde que llegamos. Suena un popurrí de rock, reagge, cumbia, ritmos mexicanos y cada tanto se oye una ovación tras gritos como “Viva el Ejercito Zapatista”.
Se baila sobre el piso que -de tanta agua- ya se hizo un barrial. La niebla no permite ver tres pasos más allá pero la alegría de los más de 2.000 invitados que se reunieron en éste caracol mantiene encendido el festejo.




Desconozco qué hora es. Y me pregunto ¿ya será año nuevo?
Esta noche no hubo cena, tampoco doce uvas, ni brindis a las 12.
No me desagrada. Es un festejo distinto y será inolvidable.
Después de todo me gusta pensar que no empieza ni termina ningún año sino que la vida son ciclos y que somos nosotros quienes decidimos cuándo poner el punto aparte, la coma, el punto seguido o dar vuelta la hoja.
Prefiero no regirme por un almanaque y saber que en cada día siempre hay una oportunidad para empezar algo que anhelamos o cerrar aquello que necesitamos, o agradecer, o desearnos felicidad o mirar el cielo y suspirar y confiar en que todo es posible.


Estamos en Oventic, una de los cinco caracoles que tienen los zapatistas en el estado de Chiapas, al sur de México.
Se llama “caracol” al espacio construido por los zapatistas para organizar su autonomía. Hay escuelas, hospitales, espacios para reuniones, tiendas, talleres, fábricas y todo depende exclusivamente de la gente que vive en el caracol. Aquí el lema es “el pueblo manda y el gobierno obedece”. Los zapatistas tienen sus propias autoridades y leyes, también su sistema de salud y de educación.















Habitualmente es necesario mostrar el pasaporte para ingresar a los caracoles y un representante de la comunidad autorizará el ingreso de las visitas. Luego los acompañará a recorrer el lugar explicándoles los propósitos, objetivos y actividades del movimiento zapatista.





La iglesia.
La iglesia por dentro.


  

  











Pero hoy es día de fiesta y las puertas de todos los caracoles están abiertas al público para celebrar los 20 años de la aparición pública del Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional.


La gente escuchando el discursos de la comandancia zapatista.














El 1° de enero de 1994 los ojos del mundo miraron a San Cristóbal de las Casas. Esa madrugada miles de indígenas descendieron de las montañas armados y encapuchados, tomaron el Palacio de Gobierno con el fin de ser escuchados, reclamar sus derechos, que sean tratados de manera igualitaria y defendiéndose del maltrato que habían sufrido durante años.

El gobierno mexicano siempre les había robado sus tierras, su dignidad, sus sueños.
La creación del EZLN demostró que la utopía de una vida autónoma, autosustentable e independiente era posible.
Desde esa fecha miles de extranjeros llegan a este pueblo mágico para conocer de qué se trata la revolución zapatista.








Hoy Sancris vive mayoritariamente del turismo y una manera de comprobarlo es ver la gran oferta de hoteles que existe en Trivago, un buscador que ayuda a los viajeros a encontrar hospedaje en todo el mundo.

Se hizo de día. En las montañas de San Andrés Larráinzar (a 60 km de San Cristóbal) sigue lloviendo y hace frío.
Todo parece igual que ayer, aunque seguramente  no lo sea.
Hace 20 años, un 1° de enero en el mundo se iniciaba algo más que un nuevo año. Empezaba a surgir un movimiento que demostró la posibilidad de un nuevo mundo: Un mundo donde quepan muchos mundos.
 


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